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Stone Wash Denim?
Stone Wash Denim?
Stone washed denim gained popularity in the 1960s and remains popular to this day. This type of denim is characterized by a lightly distressed, vintage look. The name comes from the fact that the original processing method involved rubbing pumice stones over the denim to wear down the fabric. Pumice stones are the silica-rich, high-temperature melted product of explosive eruptions during the ascent and expulsion of the earth. These are lightweight, highly porous, rocky substances which will float on water. Major pumice stone–supplying countries are the United States, Turkey, Italy, Iceland, New Zealand, Japan, Indonesia and the Philippines. It is an important component of stonewashed apparels and is used to abrade the surface of the fabric to obtain a surface pattern effect with color contrast and a soft hand. Because the degree of abrasion may vary in different parts of garments, such as the trouser leg, button slays and seaming parts, a number of neutral patterns can be formed. The degree of the wash effect depends on the stone size, stone ratio, liquor ratio, duration of treatment, amount of garments loaded, garment’s grams per square meter, etc. Stone sizes vary from 1 to 7 cm in diameter. Other washes such as sand, micro and microsand wash are referring to the use of very small size pumice stones.
Stones should be selected for their proper hardness, shape and size for the particular end product. Large, hard stones last longer and may be suited only for heavyweight fabrics. Smaller, softer stones can be used for lightweight fabrics and more delicate items (stone weight/fabric weight = 0.5 to 3/1). It depends on the degree of abrasion needed to achieve the desired result. Stones can be reused until they completely disintegrate or wash down the drain.
However, that method proves problematic owing to environmental concerns regarding the use of pumice and the fact that the stone often weakens the fabric too much, causing wear and tear. In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled with pumice stone or volcanic rock to achieve a soft hand and desirable look. Variations in composition, hardness, size, shape and porosity make these stone multifunctional. The process is expensive and requires a high capital investment. Pumice stone give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surface of the yarn.
Stone Washing of Denim with Pumice Stones has Some Disadvantages:
- Stones could cause wear and tear of the fabric.
- The quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control and the outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform. A slight percentage always gets ruined by too much abrasion.
- The process is nonselective.
- Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing machines get abraded.
- Denim needs to be washed several times to get rid of the stones completely. The process of stone washing also harms big, expensive laundry machines.
Substitution of Pumice Stone:
To overcome the shortcomings of pumice stones, synthetic stones were developed. These are made of abrasive materials such as silicate, plastic, rubber and Portland cement. Major problems associated with the use of volcanic-grade pumice stone can be overcome by using these products. Advantages of using these synthetic stones are:
- The durability of such a product is much higher and can be used repeatedly from 50 to 300 cycles, depending on the type of synthetic stone.
- Reproducibility of washing is manageable.
- Because there is much less stone discharge in the process, the process is economical and ecological.
- There is less damage to the machine and garments.
Flowchart of Denim Stone Washing Process:
Desizing (10–15 min)
↓
Rinsing
↓
Stone washing
↓
Rinsing (with perborate and optical brightener if necessary)
↓
Softening
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